I first met Tom Colicchio last May at the annual Share Our Strength Taste of the Nation gala at the Georgia Aquarium. An amicable guy with an unparalleled reputation for being a Renaissance man and quite the sex symbol to boot (Salon named him in its “Sexiest Men Living,” Nov. 2008), he posed for pics with foodies and socialites alike. He and I chatted ever so briefly about his upcoming endeavor: bringing his heralded restaurants to Atlanta. And the day has finally arrived.
Mid-December, I stepped into two of Atlanta’s newest—and hottest—restaurants: Craft Atlanta and Craftbar at the Mansion on Peachtree. The upstairs/downstairs duo is the brainchild of award-winning chef, restaurateur and author Colicchio, who hails from New York. He opened the doors to his hotly anticipated restaurants with little fanfare, not what’s typically expected for a Big Apple expansion into our fine city, especially one from the head judge on “Top Chef.” It’s that subtlety that provides a big draw into the understated elegance of Craft Atlanta and Craftbar. The new eateries are located in a free-standing building that’s part of the Mansion’s 42-story luxury hotel and residences across from Lenox Square Mall. Craft Atlanta and Craftbar offer two different dining experiences, both staying true to Colicchio’s food philosophy of bold flavors and farm-fresh, quality ingredients.
Since opening the first Craft location in New York seven years ago, Colicchio has received numerous accolades for the concept, earning a three-star review by the New York Times. Prior to Craft’s inception, Colicchio started the renowned Gramercy Tavern in Manhattan with partner Danny Meyer. The James Beard Award-winning chef made his kitchen debut in prominent New York restaurants. Colicchio has authored two cookbooks and is the head judge on Bravo’s hit reality show, “Top Chef.” Heading up the kitchens of Craft Atlanta and Craftbar is Chef de Cuisine Kevin Maxey, who has served at the helm of Craft Dallas since 2005, where he was named as a Rising Star Chef in 2007.
The 135-seat Craft Atlanta features an upscale, contemporary American menu of straightforward dishes that showcase the integrity of a single ingredient. Served family-style, the menu includes classic Craft dishes such as braised beef short ribs, beet and Roquefort blue cheese salad, roasted scallops with vermouth butter, Elysian Fields lamb loin, roasted hen-of-the-woods mushrooms and lemon beignets with lemon curd and lemon verbena ice cream. Similar to the menu, Craft’s libations include some of the best wines from around the world, focusing on smaller producers, as well as seasonal cocktails.
As a more relaxed dining option, Craftbar’s rustic and comfortable dining room offers casual fare and low-key menu items perfect for brunch, quick lunches and snacks, as well as casual dinners. Craftbar is located on the ground floor of the building and has table seating for 80, an intimate eight-seat bar, a wood-burning grill and display kitchen. In addition, a semi-private dining area seats up to 32 guests for special events. The menu includes a variety of bruschetta, hearty pasta dishes, roasted and braised meats and fish. Sandwiches, such as duck prosciutto with fontina and hen-of-the-woods mushrooms, are available for lunch, as well as for dinner.
Architects Bentel & Bentel, who are behind the design of all Craft restaurants, created the interior design for Craft Atlanta and Craftbar. The open wood-fire grill, clad in copper and steel, works as a symbolic hearth for the two-story space. Past the grill on the first floor, a thick, solid walnut slab anchors the bar and provides a warm contrast to the blackened steel-and-glass wine vault that screens an intimate dining lounge beyond. Local artist Stephanie Johnson’s works flank the walls. A monumental staircase of walnut planks draws guests to Craft Atlanta on the second floor. The spatial layout on this level provides varying degrees of intimacy while preserving the communal quality of one large dining room.
The continuing theme throughout the restaurants features natural elements of walnut, steel, copper, oak, brick, cherry, leather and muslin, all nodding to the impeccable craftsmanship reflected in every dish. SP
Kirsten Ott is the Life, Food & Style Editor of The Sunday Paper. E-mail her at kirstenott@sundaypaper.com.
DINING ESSENTIALS
CRAFT ATLANTA & CRAFTBAR
The Mansion on Peachtree
3376 Peachtree Road
Atlanta, Georgia 30326
404-995-7580
www.craftrestaurant.com
Meals: Both restaurants are open for dinner. Craftbar also serves lunch and brunch.
Hours: Craft and Craftbar both serve dinner seven days a week: Sun.–Thu. 5:30–10 p.m., Fri.–Sat. 5:30–11 p.m. Craftbar also is open for brunch Sat.-Sun. 10 a.m.–3 p.m., and lunch Mon.–Fri. 11:30 a.m.–5:30 p.m.
Reservations: Yes for Craft. Recommended for Craftbar, but walk-ins are welcome.
Dress: Business casual
Cost: Craft: starters: $3–$22; entrees: $22–$46; a la carte sides: $7–$16. Craftbar: starters: $9–$18; entrees: $16–$28.
Alcohol: Full bar
Parking: Complimentary valet
