Photo courtesy of BLT Steak
By Kirsten Ott
Opening season is upon us. Every week, a new restaurant or bar is opening, despite the grievous economy. More power to them, I say. First up on the agenda is BLT Steak, which officially opened Jan. 27. Situated in the W–Downtown, it was packed to the max on the first night and will likely continue to enjoy great success. Not just because it’s located in the now-burgeoning Downtown area, but because New York-based chef Laurent Tourondel (the LT in BLT) knows how to cultivate a modern American steakhouse. The décor integrates traditional, feminine elements of the French bistro (the B in BLT) with chophouse masculinity, marrying rich warmth and texture with Atlanta’s sophisticated style. On my first visit, I sidled up to the handsome walnut bar and sampled a few cocktails; my favorite (and the most unusual) is a twist on the Manhattan called “the last ride,” featuring Maker’s Mark, liquer d’orange, mashed cherries, sweet vermouth and peach bitters. The fresh shellfish raw bar made from Calcutta marble caught my eye en route to the table, but I had my heart set on a steak—a New York strip, how apropos. All the beef is USDA Prime or certified Black Angus and naturally aged, broiled at 1700 degrees F. and then finished with herb butter and served in a cast-iron pan. Flavorful Southern sides like a tower of onion rings, garlic sautéed collard greens, sweet potato and turnip gratin, grits and gorgonzola, and roasted butternut squash with sage complete the heartiness of this bountiful menu. I think I’ve found my new favorite restaurant. Merci, Monsieur Tourondel. BLT Steak is located at the W–Downtown at 45 Ivan Allen Jr. Blvd. 404-577-7601. www.bltrestaurants.com.
OLD SCHOOL
Upstairs from BLT Steak in the W–Downtown is Drinkshop, which opens Thursday, Feb. 5. The speakeasy-style lounge is renowned mixologist extraordinaire Sasha Petraske’s newest endeavor, after he’s successfully fostered New York and London ventures like Milk & Honey, Little Branch, Macao Trading Co. and Dutch Kills. The master of cocktails and his personally trained staff of mixologists sling iconic drinks with made-from-scratch ingredients and varying degrees of ice size, like spears, spheres, pellets and chunks, as well as a 150-pound showcase block of ice to be chipped for sipping spirits. From the authentic vintage uniforms (no two are alike) to the low-slung wide-seated conversation chairs lining a lengthy but short table styled for socializing and ear-whispering, this lounge is a throwback to glamour era of the ’20s and ’30s. Bottles will arrive at guest tables frozen in a solid block of ice, accompanied by freshly made mixers such as strawberry lemonade, spicy homemade ginger ale, raspberry-rickey soda and mojito. 404-582-5787.
TRUE RELIGION
Scott Serpas’ O4W restaurant Serpas is now open. It’s situated in the Studioplex, a 1900s cotton storage facility. Described by the chef as “true food,” the dishes range from creamy oyster stew with leeks, celery, bacon, poblano and dairy warm smoked ham to white bean salad with collards and citrus Creole mustard dressing, stuffed artichoke petals with seasoned bread crumbs, olive oil, parmesan and roasted garlic, shrimp andouille croquettes with mango sour rum and queso cotija and mushrooms stuffed with sage, pork, parsley oil and lemon. For a sweet spot, try the fried mini-pies with seasonal fruit fillings plated in pairs. Chef Serpas originally hails from New Orleans, but Atlantans know him better from his successful helming of the Two Urban Licks kitchen. The orange, chocolate and celery color palette meshes well with the industrial space. A comforting, rustic appeal of concrete and steel echoes the soulfulness of Serpas’ nouveau comfort food. Serpas True Food is located at 659 Auburn Ave. 404-688-0040. www.serpasrestaurant.com.
Kirsten Ott is the Life, Food & Style Editor of The Sunday Paper. Check out her new Insider blog at www.sundaypaper.com, or drop her a line at kirstenott@sundaypaper.com.
This article originally appeared in The Sunday Paper, February 1, 2009.
